Yakitori Alley, Shinjuku: What to Order and When to Go

This guide is part of our Tokyo Travel Guide: Neighbourhoods, Food and Getting Around — start there for the overview, itineraries and costs.

Last Updated: December 2024

Stepping Back in Time

Ducking into Yakitori Alley can feel like being transported to 1950s Tokyo. Smoke billows from tiny grills, red lanterns glow against the evening sky, and salarymen squeeze onto plastic stools no bigger than dinner plates. Yakitori Alley (Memory Lane/Omoide Yokocho) is one of the city's most unforgettable experiences.

This narrow alleyway grew out of a black market set up around 1946 on ground cleared by the wartime air raids, and has survived post-war reconstruction and endless modernisation. What remains is a living time capsule – and some of the best grilled chicken in Japan.

Table of Contents

• Essential Information
• History of Yakitori Alley
• What to Order
• Best Stalls and Restaurants
• Price Guide
• Etiquette and Tips
• When to Visit
• Nearby Attractions
• Pro Tips
• Conclusion

Essential Information

History of Yakitori Alley

Post-War Origins

Yakitori Alley emerged from the chaos following World War II. Black market vendors set up makeshift stalls near Shinjuku Station, selling whatever they could get their hands on – including chicken parts that more affluent customers rejected.

The Name "Piss Alley"

The area earned its crude nickname (Shonben Yokocho) because the original alley lacked plumbing. Men would relieve themselves against nearby walls after drinking. Today, proper facilities exist, and the more polite "Memory Lane" (Omoide Yokocho) is the preferred name.

Survival Against Odds

Despite fires, including a major blaze in November 1999 that damaged 28 of its 70 shops, and constant redevelopment pressure, the alley has been rebuilt each time. The 2020 Olympics prompted efforts to modernize, but the vendors successfully preserved the area's character.

What to Order

Yakitori Basics

Yakitori means "grilled chicken" – skewered pieces cooked over charcoal. Most shops offer two seasoning choices:

• Shio (塩): Simple salt – highlights the chicken's natural flavor
• Tare (タレ): Sweet-savory soy-based glaze

Essential Yakitori Cuts

Beyond Yakitori

Most stalls also serve:

• Yakiton: Grilled pork skewers
• Motsu: Grilled or stewed offal
• Edamame: Salted soybeans (¥300-400)
• Ramen: Some stalls serve small bowls

Best Stalls and Restaurants

1. Asadachi (あさだち)

Specialty: Hormone (offal), organ meats
Hours: 5 PM - 11:30 PM
Seats: ~10
Best for: Adventurous eaters

2. Tori Ichibu (鳥一部)

Specialty: Traditional yakitori
Hours: 5 PM - midnight
Seats: ~8
Best for: First-timers, classic yakitori

3. Kabuto (かぶと)

Specialty: Eel (unagi) skewers
Hours: 5 PM - midnight
Seats: ~12
Best for: Trying grilled eel skewers

4. Wakaba (わかば)

Specialty: Ramen and yakitori combo
Hours: 6 PM - 1 AM
Seats: ~8
Best for: Late night cravings

Price Guide

Typical Evening Budget

Drink Prices

• Draft beer (large): ¥500-600
• Highball: ¥350-450
• Sake (small flask): ¥400-600
• Shochu: ¥350-500
• Soft drinks: ¥200-300

Etiquette and Tips

Ordering Etiquette

• Point and gesture if language is a barrier – staff are used to tourists
• Order drinks first (it's expected)
• Order skewers 2-3 at a time, not all at once
• Say "Shio" or "Tare" for your seasoning preference

Space Etiquette

• Expect very tight quarters – your elbows will touch neighbors
• Don't linger if there's a queue – finish and make room for others
• Large bags should be left at station lockers

Payment

• Most stalls are cash only – bring ¥5,000-10,000
• Some may have minimum orders
• Pay at end of meal

When to Visit

Best Times

Best Days

• Weekdays: Less crowded, easier seating
• Friday/Saturday: Most atmospheric but packed
• Rainy evenings: Fewer tourists, smoky atmosphere enhanced

Nearby Attractions

Before Your Visit

• Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building: Free observation deck, sunset views (closes 9:30 PM)
• Shinjuku Gyoen: Beautiful garden, closed Mondays, closing time varies by season (enter before yakitori)

After Your Visit

• Golden Gai: 5-minute walk, 200+ tiny bars
• Kabukicho: Neon-lit entertainment district
• Don Quijote: 24-hour discount store for souvenirs

Pro Tips

Go Early or Go Late

The 7-9 PM window is chaos. Either arrive at 5:30 PM when stalls open (my preference) or after 10 PM when crowds thin.

Try the "Weird" Stuff

You're in a place famous for grilling every part of the chicken. This is your chance to try heart, liver, or gizzard prepared by masters. Start with hatsu (heart) – it's surprisingly approachable.

Use Google Maps

The alley is a maze. Screenshot your target stall's location before entering, or you'll wander the same 50 meters repeatedly.

Dress Down

You will smell like smoke. Wear clothes you don't mind airing out afterward. This is not the night for your nice jacket.

Learn the Magic Words

• "Sumimasen" (excuse me) – to get attention
• "Kanpai" (cheers) – before drinking
• "Oishii" (delicious) – makes the cook smile

Conclusion

Yakitori Alley offers something increasingly rare in modern Tokyo: genuine, unreconstructed authenticity. The smoke-stained alleys, cramped stools, and sizzling skewers create an experience that feels more real than any polished tourist attraction.

Yes, it's crowded. Yes, you'll smell like a campfire afterward. Yes, the menu is mostly in Japanese. But that's precisely the point. This is Tokyo as it existed 70 years ago, preserved against all odds. For the price of a few beers and some chicken skewers, you'll have one of your most memorable Tokyo evenings.

Ready to explore Memory Lane? The smoke is waiting!